Reviews
A real gem
Bert Walsh goes into cultural overload on a classical music cruise to the Baltic capitals
WE were warned to expect
a frosty reception at St
Petersburg passport control,
nevertheless I was
determined to win a
smile from Olga the straight-faced
immigration official.
I cordially wished her "Dobroye Utra".
Olga, without a hint of acknowledgement,
scrutinised my passport then coldly
looked me up and down. Unfazed, I
burst into song with the Beatles' Back in
the USSR. Did my fine rendition invoke
the merest glimmer of a smile? Niet.
Welcome to Mother Russia.
Now Olga or anyone needing a crash
course in charm should sail on the Saga
Ruby. From genial Scottish captain Alistair
Mclundie, down to aptly named
Grace, the Filipino cocktail waitress,
service reached new heights.
Formerly named Caronia, Ruby is a
classic liner who gave sterling service
to Cunard before her transfer to Saga
and subsequent major refurbishment.
Unlike the new breed of glitzy gin
palaces', like a benign dowager she oozes
old world charm throughout her elegant
public rooms.
Our Press group joined the Ruby at
Copenhagen, unfortunately too late to
sample Denmark's maritime capital.
However, with a veritable voyage of discovery
lying ahead, disappointments
were quickly forgotten as we reached
our first port of call, Stockholm.
Enjoying one of Europe's most beautiful
settings, Sweden's cosmopolitan
capitol lies over 14 islands. After visiting
the old town with its narrow medieval
streets and distinctive red brick City
Hall, we followed the picturesque waterfront
to the Vasa exhibition.
In 1628, on her maiden voyage, the top
heavy warship encountered a slight
swell, causing her to capsize. Preserved
in mud for 333 years, the Vasa was raised
in 1961 and has been meticulously reconstructed.
This exhibition in size and
scale is simply awesome and scores ten
on the "wow" factor.
Our group were mistaken for musicians,
easily done considering we sailed
on a classical music cruise to the Baltic
capitals. With the cruise embarking and
returning to Tyneside, there was a
strong Northern presence on board. The
Wests from Penrith typified the Saga
clientele, preferring smaller, more intimate
ships, enjoying quality company
and the other vital ingredient of any
cruise, the cuisine.
With three restaurants, Ruby does not
disappoint. For informal and alfresco
dining, the Lido buffet makes a change
from the grand dining room, but the
swish View restaurant is the star performer.
Be warned, Saga guests take no
prisoners where food is concerned.
Sweet little old ladies are ruthlessly competitive
at the buffet, intent on finishing
dinner early to nab the best seats for
the concerts.
AND with the entertainment provided,
who could blame them?
Opera aficionados were entranced
by the decidedly dishy Rosa and Hannah,
while the performance of the Sonas
String Quartet playing Handel and
Mozart were equally memorable. Concert
pianist Anthony Peebles mesmerised
as with expressive gusto he set
about Rachmaninoff and Chopin.
The cruise featured colourful variety
shows and even a 70s evening. For guests
hot to trot there is nightly dancing, unaccompanied
ladies glided around the
floor by the gentlemen hosts.
Our next capital, Helsinki, gave us the
opportunity to visit composer Sibelius's
house and to experience a wonderful
recital of his work.
For guests choosing to stay onboard,
daytime pursuits are plentiful, although
with cocktails a modest £1.50, it's difficult
for some to leave the bar and pool.
The Ruby offers deck games, quizzes, lectures
and a well stocked library, while
the cinema screens the latest releases.
I tried to burn off the calories in the
small gym, but failed miserably.
Having listened intently to the onboard
lecture of St Petersburg, the
Venice of the Baltic, surpassed all expectations.
Built around a network of
canals and rivers, the city is full of striking
architecture, wide boulevards and
colossal squares. St Issacs and the
Church of the Spilled Blood are both
must-sees, but even they are overshadowed
by the spectacular palace and fountains
of Peterhof.
Walk along the embankment to view
the cruiser Aurora which fired the first
salvo to ignite a nation, signalling the
bloody demise of the Romanov dynasty.
Ride on a Stali-boy tram and hear the
heroics of a city besieged for 900 days.
Our grand finale was a concert at the
Hermitage and private viewing of one of
the world's finest art collections,
amassed by Catherine the Great. Amidst
the grandeur of the Italian Hall priceless
Titians gazed down as the State Hermitage
Orchestra led us on a musical
odyssey. A champagne reception followed,
the evening defying superlatives.
Next day the Ruby cruised onwards to
Germany. Reluctantly, we disembarked
at Tallin, a fairytale city of towers and
turrets. En route to the airport the taxi
radio blasted out Ruby, Ruby, Ruby -
well she is a gem.
TRAVEL FACTS
Saga Ruby's 13-night Baltic
Splendours Cruise calls at
Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki,
St Petersburg, Tallin,
Warnemunde (for Berlin) and
Aarhus, departing and returning
to Newcastle.
Prices include gratuities, meals
and entertainment on board, plus
travel to/from your departure
point.
Tel: 0800-50-50-30 or visit
www.saga.co.uk/travelshop
10:18am Saturday 26th January 2008
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