Love is in the air (From The Northern Echo)

Love is in the air

12:04pm Saturday 6th February 2010

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Edinburgh’s world-class culture, architecture and hospitality make it a serious rival for Paris’s title as Europe’s most romantic city. With Valentine’s Day approaching, The Northern Echo visited Edinburgh for a weekend in Scotland’s classy capital.

WHEN the writer Robert Louis Stevenson described his home town as “what Paris ought to be”, he was really on to something. Huddled between the tumbling green of the Pentland Hills and the shimmering Firth of Forth, Edinburgh has always had the scenery to beat France’s capital, but now its burgeoning restaurant scene and selection of highend hotels surely must make it the number one place for a romantic break.

And you don’t have to fly to get there quickly. The regular East Coast service gets you there from the North-East in a little over 90 minutes – just enough time to enjoy a bite to eat and a coffee as the Northumbrian coastline flickers past the window.

After our arrival at Waverley Station, we checked in to the iconic Hilton Caledonian.

Known locally as The Caley, the legendary hotel has been sitting grandly at the top of Princes Street for more than a century. Pick the right room, as we did, and you can enjoy stunning views of the castle and gardens from the comfort of your easy chair.

The Caley has been a five-star hotel for as long as anyone can remember, and it’s easy to see why. The old-school grandeur of the place strikes you immediately and the staff are helpful, friendly and happy to offer a warm welcome. The luxury rooms are equipped with everything you’ll need, from the comfy king-sized bed and deep bath, to the ironing board and high-speed internet connection.

On our first night we ate at the muchloved Spanish bistro, Iggs. The venue, in Jeffrey Street, is split into two sections with a speedy tapas bar in one half, and a haute cuisine restaurant in the other.

We decided to splash out, and the threecourse menu was well worth the stretch.

The owner, Iggy Campos, has been serving up Mediterranean classics with a modern twist for 15 years, and the restaurant has become a firm favourite with local foodies. The highlight of our meal was the delicious Iberian pork, and pig cheeks with cider caramel.

The next morning, after a comprehensive feed at the Hilton, we headed for a morning at The Scotsman Spa and Health Club. While I worked off the full Scottish breakfast in the pool, my wife headed upstairs for the spa’s signature Top to Toe treatment. The ultimate indulgent treat – she spent an hour and a half being pampered with a full body massage using sea salts and algae petals, followed by a facial with Thalgo marine products. To leave her feeling thoroughly spoilt, the session ended with a relaxing foot massage.

The nearby Scotch Whisky Experience was revamped last year and now hosts the world’s largest collection of rare bottles in an impressive network of glazed corridors. The in-house restaurant, Amber, does a neat line in lunches using the best local produce, and we had a good baked haddock with mustard mash before taking a tour of the centre.

What was once a museum is now an interactive exhibition, with an excellent guided tour through the history of Scotland’s national spirit, followed by a complimentary dram and a free tasting glass to take home.

Just across the street is the famous Camera Obscura – one of Edinburgh’s star attractions since Victorian times.

Using a giant periscope, live images of the surrounding streets are beamed onto a viewing table, allowing visitors a giant’s eye view of the city. It’s an endearingly bizarre experience, and it’s hard to resist the temptation to reach out and try to pick up one of the unwitting tourists as you watch them scurry antlike down the Royal Mile.

EDINBURGH’S hard-earned reputation as a culinary hotspot rests mainly on a flair for making the most of Scotland’s abundance of natural ingredients.

Surely nowhere does this better than Cafe Fish – a fantastic place for seafood in the trendy Shore area of Leith. The young staff specialise in turning out simple dishes featuring the freshest fish possible.

A hot smoked salmon starter was just the way to kick off our evening, and after a few glasses of chilled Chardonnay, we were more than ready for the hearty main course of seared sea bass with roasted vegetables.

Our last morning was spent having a look around the Dean Gallery, currently hosting the best entries from this year’s BP Portrait Awards, before heading off for a shopping spree at the Grassmarket.

Armstrong’s Vintage Clothing store is a bargain hunter’s paradise – a treasure trove piled to the roof with all kinds of second-hand gear, from designer jeans to full Highland dress outfits.

Should the mood take you, you can even pick up a new suit of armour, although you might want to wait until festival time before taking to the streets in it.

Travelfacts

Advance returns between Newcastle and Edinburgh, booked online, start from £17 standard class to £36 first class: book via nationalexpresseast coast.com, call 0845-7225-225 or visit any staffed station.

Caledonian Hilton

For more details visit hilton.co.uk/caledonian or call 0131-222-8888

Scotch Whisky Experience

For more information call 0131-220-0441 or visit scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk

Cafe Fish

For more information visit cafefish.net or call 0131-538-6131

The Scotsman Spa

To book a place call 0131-556-5565, email reservations@thescotsmanhotel.co.uk or visit theetoncollection.com

Iggs

For more information, visit iggs.co.uk or call 0131-557-8184

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