Azure like it (From The Northern Echo)

Azure like it

12:24pm Saturday 6th June 2009 in

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They have had their fair share of invasions over the years, but the Maltese Islands will play host to an altogether friendlier army as Easyjet begins flights from Newcastle this month. Stuart Boulton drops in.

THERE are seven islands in the archipelago, which bask in the Mediterranean sun off the Sicilian coast.

The second largest island is Gozo.

More rural, greener and quieter than its big sister Malta, it was first settled in 3600BC and is home to what is thought to be the oldest man-made structure in the world, the fascinating Ggantija temples. Built 5,800 years ago, they predate Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids.

Ferries sail regularly throughout the year between Cirkewwa in Malta and Mgarr in Gozo, but if you want to make the trip in style, Harbourair makes daily seaplane crossings at 44 euros one way.

You don’t pay on the ferry coming back, so take the plane there if you choose this option.

The Gozitans thrive on fishing and agriculture. In the small villages that dot the island, fishermen tend nets and ploughmen work tiny fields surrounded by vibrant outbursts of wild flowers.

The locals treasure their peace and tranquillity and the pace of life is slow, making this an excellent place to escape the hustle and bustle of modern life.

Rickety and beautiful old buses ply the island’s sleepy roads – Bedfords, Leylands and Fords connect Gozo’s villages with its capital Victoria.

If public transport’s not your thing, car hire and taxis are readily available. By far the best way to explore the island, though, is by bicycle or on foot.

Headwater.com organises weeklong luxury walking and cycling holidays – and will deliver your bags to the hotel so you don’t have to carry them.

Gozo has its fair share of natural wonders – the Azure Window in Dwerja, a magnificent archway in a huge rock peninsula, is best viewed from one of the tiny fishing boats that make regular trips around its towering precipice.

There’s a glorious stretch of red sandy beach and perfect snorkelling waters at Ramla Bay, where Joan Collins stripped off to make the xrated and bizarrely named film, Can Hieronymus Merkin Ever Forget Mercy Humppe and Find True Happiness?, or take a boat trip to the Blue Lagoon on the tiny island of Comino and swim in its crystal clear waters.

If it’s adventure you’re after then Gozo offers superb diving and rock climbing. Most dives start from the shore, eliminating the need and expense of a boat.

The Blue Hole of Dwerja is in the top ten of European dive sites. Then there’s The Chimney which is entered one diver at a time through a fissure in almost vertical rock. In Xlendi Bay, mobydives.net has an excellent location and dives start at 21 euros, it also provides accommodation and runs PADI courses for beginners and advanced divers.

There are many climbing routes on Gozo, all on good quality limestone rock. The climbing scenarios are extremely spectacular, with majestic cliffs towering above deep blue sea, or gorge-like valleys meandering through Gozo’s unspoilt landscape.

Accommodation on the island is varied. The luxurious Kempinski Hotel, in San Lawrenz, has its own Ayurveda treatment centre.

Ayurveda is a system of traditional medicine native to India. Dr Reshmi Vijayakumar, who heads the centre, also runs yoga breaks and was trained at the Shivananda yoga centre, in Kerala. Prices for a twin room start at 110 euros per night.

The Ta’ Cenc at Sannat is another excellent five-star hotel. At the other end of the price range, the Sea Star Apartments in Xlendi offer a twin room with a balcony overlooking the bay with kitchen, living area and en suite for 18 euros per person per night for a week in July.

There are plenty of apartments, hostels and guest houses dotted around the island, but there are no camp sites or caravan parks. Farmhouses can be rented for groups at gozoprestigeholidays.com Dining on Gozo is an absolute delight.

The Il-Kartell, in Marsalforn, has excellent seafood; the waiting staff will expertly advise you on the best dishes.

For fine dining, the multi awardwinning It-Tmun restaurant, in Victoria, is outstanding. Ta’ Frenc, in Marsalforn, is another fine dining award winner.

The Country Terrace Restaurant, in Mgarr, D-Bar, in Qala, Oleander, in Xaghra, Tatitas, in San Lawrenz, It- Tmun, in Xlendi, and Porto Vecchio in Mgarr, all excellent. Eating your way around Gozo wouldn’t be a bad thing to do at all.

So, if you’re not climbing up rock faces or admiring its underwater magnificence, Gozo is a place to slow right down, to relax with a good book, to take languid late afternoon walks through sleepy villages and spend long evenings eating fantastic food in one of its excellent restaurants – let the wine and the laughter flow.

Its lack of kiss-me-quick karaoke nightmares is its triumph, but the best description of this beautiful little island however was made by the eccentric English poet Edward Lear after he stayed here in 1866. In a letter to Lady Waldergrave he called the place simply “pomskizillious and gromphibberous”.

Travel Facts

STUART travelled from Darlington to London King’s Cross with National Express East Coast: Advanced returns, booked online, start from £27 standard class or £93 first class: book via nationalexpresseastcoast.com, call 08457-225225 or visit any staffed station.

He flew with Easyjet from London Gatwick. Flights start from £29.99 one-way including taxes from easyjet.com Easyjet launches its new route from Newcastle to Malta this month. The service will run twice weekly and fares will start from £26.99 one-way including taxes.

easyjet.com Information on Gozo holidays can be found at visitmalta.com/gozo RESTAURANTS: Prices are for two courses and half a bottle of wine per person Xaghra village – Oleander restaurant, 29.12 euros San Lawrenz – Tatitas restaurant, 30 euros Mgarr – Porto Vecchio restaurant, about 28 euros Marsalforn – Il Kartell restaurant, about 30 euros Mgarr – Country Terrace restaurant, about 30 euros Victoria – It-Tmun restaurant, 33.65 euros