Gavin Engelbrecht takes a boat trip behind the former Iron Curtain and discovers a part of Germany that reveals some dark secrets

THE sun beats down from a cloudless sky... a thrumming engine purrs softly underneath. Cold beer in hand I watch an idyllic riverside scene glide by.

Our hosts - European Boating Holidays - said we would be relaxed within minutes of setting off. And how right they are.

Our home for the next few days is a luxury boat in every sense of the word - and you don't even need a licence to drive it. Just a quick lesson in showing the ropes and, before we know it, we are off, confidently negotiating everything the river can throw at us, from sweeping bends to narrow locks.

The area we are travelling through is north of Berlin, in a place hidden from view for decades by the Cold War. Indeed, our starting point is Fürstenberg, a former Soviet base. The headquarters of Cardinal Boating Holidays on the shore of Lake Röblinsee was once an army supermarket.

This is still very much a secret corner of Germany. Before the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, the area alone hosted 35,000 Soviets, who far outnumbered the 5,000 native Germans.

The surrounding forests hid the Soviet nuclear missiles which once pointed at the capitals of Europe. Here they were constantly kept on the move in the hidden confines of the woods.

All civilian movement was prohibited, so it is no surprise that nature thrived - one of the few things the Germans have to thank their unwelcome guests for.

After the unification of Germany, families flooded back to their former homes, transforming it beyond recognition in places.

From our departure point we have access - had we the time - to 800km of waterways and a further 3,000km with the appropriate sailor's licence.

And, unlike the rest of (West) Germany, where almost 99 per cent of lake and river edges are privately owned, here you can moor at will almost anywhere you want.

The waters are pristine, too, and, what's more, have what our host describes as "all-inclusive weather". It's a meteorological idiosyncrasy that ensures these stretches of water have their own weather system - almost guaranteed to keep away the rain, while the rest of the country is cursed by showers.

And it is an area yet to be discovered by the well-travelled Germans.

The first lake we enter harbours its own dark secret, which is not highlighted on any brochure, let alone mentioned.

Beyond the fringe of trees on the lake edge is what used to be home of the only concentration camp dedicated to women prisoners - Ravensbrück.

During the Second World War, the lake Schwedtsee became the final resting place for the ashes of thousands of Jews, political enemies and gypsies who perished here.

We press on through the next lake, Stolpsee, into an area with little sign of habitation, being part of the largest nature reserve here. A lock comes, a lock goes and so the day drifts by until we arrive at the historic city of Templin, nestled in the rolling hills of Uckermark, which is incidentally the hometown of German Chancellor, Angela Merkel.

Large blocks of the town were laid to waste during the war, to be replaced by austere Eastern bloc architecture. In places the medieval timber-framed houses survived and attempts have been made to spruce them up with multi-hues of pastel shades. Those awaiting attention are drab and grey and attest to the neglect of the old East Germany.

This is the only German - or indeed European town - still completely encircled by a preserved city wall dating from the Middle Ages. And our guide is determined to show us all 1,735m of it - well almost anyway.

The jewels in the wall are three Gothic- style stone gates and 48 watchtowers.

The oldest building is the Gothic St Georgen-Kapelle, dating to the 14th Century.

THE town also features a fascinating Baroque town hall from 1751, which was restored after being partially destroyed when the Soviets arrived.

For those who have time there are the famous healing baths of Natur- Therme Templin.

European boating holidays, the second largest operator of inland waterway holidays on the continent, has launched its first UK programme for Locaboat Holidays and Cardinal Boating holidays.

It's five-year expansion plan will see it boost the fleet of Locaboat Penichettes on the water in France, Holland, Italy and Germany from 360 to 500. At the same time the number of Europa models will rise from 30 to 80.

The focus is clearly on comfort and style on the Europa. It boasts en-suite heated cabins, full entertainment systems with satellite television, a supersize teak decking with a shower and sports bicycle for each passenger.

For the eco-conscious there is further comfort in the knowledge that its quiet and economic engine runs on bio diesel.

The boats are available for hire for three days or more, with heating making an unconventional winter boating trip as enjoyable as at any other time of the year. No previous boating experience is needed. The simple task of driving is fully explained on arrival.

Fürstenberg is easily accessible by car - about an hour and a half from Berlin and three hours from Hamburg. From Berlin's main station, if you take the Airport express, you will be in Fürstenberg station in less than an hour.

TRAVEL FACTS

European Boating Holidays brings together two established boating providers - Locaboat Holidays and Cardinal Boating Holidays.

Formed in 2006, it is now the largest independent motor cruising company in Europe.

The company offers self-skippered cruising along the inland waterways of France, Germany, Holland, Italy, Ireland and most recently, Poland.

Boats are available to sleep between two and 12 people. Prices start at £535 per couple for seven nights on board a Locaboat Penichette.

Booking inquiries from 0845-450- 5229 or www.european boatingholidays.co.uk

9:24am Saturday 9th February 2008

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