Review: The Stanwick, Albrough St John (From The Northern Echo)

Winter wonder land

5:33pm Friday 16th December 2011 in Reviews By Nigel Burton

Nigel Burton uncovers the secret of why word of mouth takes so many diners to the tiny village of Aldbrough St John.

Food: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Ambience: 4/5
Value for money: 4/5

IF YOU are going to run a pub/restaurant that’s miles from the nearest town it had better be pretty good. Think about it for a moment. A so-so restaurant in a busy town can probably get away with a mediocre menu thanks to passing trade. But no one is going to make a special trip for a decidedly dodgy plate of food.

Places like the Stanwick (formerly the Stanwick Arms) at Aldbrough St John, nine miles outside Darlington, simply have to be good because they depend on word-of-mouth.

Especially in winter.

This review should have been written 12 months ago. But the last time we set out for Aldbrough St John it was snowing and had been all week. Even armed with a Range Rover, the visit had to be abandoned. This time, despite Met Office warnings of an imminent cold snap and the first snow of winter, our visit was accomplished without drama.

As we swung into the village it was heartening to see the car park full to capacity and a couple of dozen vehicles parked on the green outside.

The name of the inn has always confused me because it’s not actually in Stanwick, although the two villages have been linked for as long as anyone can remember and are in the same ecclesiastical parish. It seems most likely that Aldbrough was originally a Roman encampment at the time of the siege of the Brigantian camp at Stanwick (the Brigantian queen Cartimandua had made her home there). Since then, Aldbrough has outgrown its smaller neighbour half a mile away. So the Stanwick at Aldbrough St John it is.

The Stanwick deceives in another way, too.

From the outside it looks quiet small and homely – I was puzzled as to why there were so many cars outside yet apparently so few drinkers and diners inside. But the inn is a maze of rooms and small cosy bars. We were dining in the very last one and I counted three other dining areas (plus the kitchen) before we reached our table. Apparently, the dining rooms were originally small cottages which explains why dining at The Stanwick is so homely. Heading back to the bar I only half joked that I might need a ball of string to find my way back.

The Stanwick is run by Neil and Helen Maddison- Potts, pictured, who took the business over three years ago. As well as being an ace chef, Neil’s other love is beer and his wellstocked cellar means the bar always has at least five real ales on tap. Neil’s passion for perfection has been recognised by Camra (Campaign for Real Ale) and the pub is cask marque accredited.

As I was driving, I abstained from the beer, but my wife enjoyed a bold cabernet sauvignon.

The menu is largely traditional and, as you would expect, it’s all cooked to order.

For my starter, I elected to have Greenland prawns in a home-made Rose Marie sauce on a bed of salad. Jane opted for mushrooms in a garlic sauce glazed with applewood cheese. The good old-fashioned prawn cocktail has made something of a culinary comeback these last few years. They tasted fresh and the sauce added a bit of zing to the ensemble. The salad, too, was a pleasing affair, nice crisp lettuce, a selection of peppers and even some beetroot. Served with a wedge of lemon and buttered brown bread for £5.95, I felt we were off to a winning start.

Garlic mushrooms are an old favourite, too, but unlike prawns they have never really fallen out of favour. The aroma of garlic added to mushrooms has bags of appeal and the addition of applewood smoked cheese added a touch of extra texture. It looked – and tasted – great.

Good value, too, at just £4.95.

ON to the main course and Jane had ordered the half-roast duck in orange sauce. This being Christmas, and with snow forecast, I decided to go for the roast turkey with all the trimmings which looked to be a seasonal bargain for £10.95.

Recipes are important but, ultimately, it’s the raw ingredients that can make or break a meal.

My turkey breast meat was white and moist with a pronounced, but well-balanced, taste.

There was plenty of it, too, and the proper cranberry sauce was the perfect accompaniment.

The separate tray of veggies included roasties (done really well with a crispy shell and white fluffy insides), new potatoes, red cabbage, crisp carrots and parsnips.

Jane’s roast duck must have been enormous if she only got half of it, but the meat was really tender, falling off the bone at the merest nudge of a knife, and the skin had been nicely browned so it looked, as well as tasted, good. A memorable main course well worth £15.95.

With two hefty courses behind us Jane elected to go for the light ‘n’ fluffy meringue and icecream but I couldn’t resist the allure of vanilla cheesecake drizzled with Bailey’s Irish cream.

The meringue was, as you’d expect, sweet and easily digestible. The cheesecake was spot-on, too, but, after such an indulgent meal, I felt almost guilty packing it all away.

The waitress service was good, polite and attentive, and the general ambience felt nice and relaxed with only the gentle murmur of conversation to accompany your meal and no annoying muzak.

Before he took on the Stanwick, Neil worked at the Shoulder of Mutton, in Middleton Tyas, for 20 years during which time it gained an enviable reputation for good food, fine beers and a convivial atmosphere. After a very satisfying meal, it’s not hard to see why.