After consulting leading North-East salon owner Wilson Derbyshire, Sarah French discovers that communication is key to getting the best out of your hairdresser

THE hairdresser brushes off the last of the trimmings from your shoulders and positions the mirror to reveal the reflection of your new style from the back. You say: “That’s great, lovely.” You think: “Well, it’ll be fine when I get home and redo it how I really want it.”

Whether it’s politeness or embarrassment, fickleness or too high expectations, it seems it’s not unusual for women to be unhappy about their hair – even after an hour or two in the salon. Most of us can admit to telling a little white lie to our stylist just to get out of the chair, breathing a sigh of relief as we escape the humiliation of having to admit we really just don’t like what they’ve done.

The Northern Echo: CHARITY: Wilson Derbyshire.
Advice: Wilson Derbyshire

It's especially difficult when you've gone to the same hairdresser for many years - up to 12 years for British women, according to a recent survey. The comfort you build up over time can turn to extreme discomfort if you reach the point when you're just not happy with your stylist producing the same cut time after time. Luckily, according to Wilson Derbyshire, owner of Shine Hair & Beauty in Northallerton, it should be a scenario of the past.

“The explosion of photo-led magazines and social media like Pinterest and Instagram mean there are pictures everywhere of the latest trends and ideas to inspire,” he explains. “Clients can come to our salon not only with a clear idea of what they want, but can also call up an image on their phone or bring a page from a magazine of the look they’re hoping their stylist can recreate.”

However, it’s still not as simple as replicating Siena Miller’s 'wob' or the super-blonde of Poppy Delevingne. “It still requires a conversation, and I think both stylists and clients have got much better at that as well,” says Wilson. “In my experience hairdressers get the clients they feel comfortable with, and vice versa. So if you’re not happy with ‘just the same as I had last time’ or even if you want a complete change you shouldn’t be afraid to say so.

“A good stylist will always sit down with you and have a conversation around what you want from the salon experience on that day. That’s your moment to pull out a picture or say that you were thinking of doing something different this time.

“Your hairdresser should be delighted to try something new on you; a great stylist will offer their own ideas and work with you to develop the look you really want and that will work with your lifestyle. There shouldn't be embarrassment on either side about doing that."

The truth about trying to emulate any style or colour you’ve seen on someone else is that you may need to be open to compromise. Creating a replica might not be as easy as it looks.

“There are key things a hairdresser should be asking before they embark on any new look,” says Wilson.

“They should ask about the client's lifestyle – how many different roles they play in a day and what each requires, if they have any hobbies such as regular swimming that might affect your hair if they're having a colour, what previous treatments they've had and so on. While the conversation is taking place they should also be taking-in the shape of their client's face, their skin tone and the strength of their hair. It all helps towards building a relationship between the stylist and client, which helps them achieve what the client want and helps the client to trust their stylist.”

As Joan Crawford said, the most important thing a woman can have besides talent is the right hairdresser.

Clear-cut communication:

1 Refine your ideas for what you want before your appointment. Collect visuals of looks you like. Create a Pinterest board on your mobile device.

2 Know how much you’re comfortable with spending on your hair, for the restyle, new colour, continued maintenance and six-weekly follow-up appointments.

3 Make sure your stylist asks you the right questions – if they don’t, then volunteer the information.

4 Be open to suggestions.

5 Get to know your stylist so you can build confidence and trust.

6 Good hairdressers won’t sell you products you don’t need, but equally there are products that make hair feel and work better, so listen to their advice.

7 If your desired look is a complete contrast to what you have, eg from a crop to a bob, have a long-term plan and work towards it gradually with each salon visit.

8 Book a pre-appointment for a more detailed consultation at a quieter time before your actual re-style appointment.

9 Get to know your own colour personality:

Edgy – likes a strong, dramatic look;

Trendsetter – you constantly change your hair as new trends appear;

Natural Beauty – you like subtle colour;

Perfectionist – you’re safe but woe betide any grey hairs…

Working out who you are will help your colourist know the direction to take you in.