GARETH RAYNER, is Head Chef at The Coach House at Middleton Lodge, an award-winning restaurant and hotel based just outside of Richmond. He still lives in his hometown of Hartlepool, and when he’s not in the kitchen, spends his time with his children, grandchildren and partner Sophie, who is the Restaurant Manager at The Coach House. The couple have been together for ten years since meeting at Farrar’s Bistro in Hartlepool, and previously worked together at 3AA Rosette Wynyard Hall. “It might seem strange that we work together, especially in such a highly pressured environment, but it’s what we love to do and we support each other every step of the way,” he says.

They moved to The Coach House just before its launch. “I believe a key element to a successful restaurant is having the kitchen and front-of-house teams in sync,” says Gareth. “At The Coach House we see each other as family, and it’s this level of dedication that makes a difference.”

Earliest Food Memories

My mum’s Sunday roasts will always have a special place in my heart. But my fascination with food stemmed from my time spent at my Nana Betty’s house. Betty belonged to the Salvation Army and was a keen baker; it’s where my passion for pastry came from.

When did you first realise you had a passion for food?

I studied at Dyke House School, in Hartlepool, and chose Home Economics as one of my options. It soon became obvious that it was what I loved to do. It was so exciting to express my creativity through different dishes. I also loved art, which I think is reflected in the way we serve our dishes at The Coach House. I trained at Kirby College, in Middlesbrough. One day I saw a job on the noticeboard for a local pub in Hartlepool. I started off pot-washing, then the chefs started to teach me the basics. From that moment, I was hooked.

I started out at Jackson’s Wharf Pub and Farrar’s Restaurant, in Hartlepool, then had the opportunity to work at Crathorne Hall under Michelin Star chef Peter Fleming, who was a massive influence on me. I opened my own restaurant right before the recession hit, and unfortunately it closed after a year. I moved on to The Traddock in Austwicke, then Wynyard Hall under Alan O’Kane, who was an amazing mentor and is still a very close friend of mine.

How did you come to work at The Coach House?

I joined The Coach House in August 2014, ahead of its launch in October. When I came for my interview and cook-off, meeting owner James and kitchen executive Caroline, I just knew this was the place for me. James had such a clear and defined vision, one that excited me, but also allowed me to have the creative freedom to deliver something really special. Plus, what is there not to love about working on a Georgian country estate every day? The place is steeped in heritage, but has a relaxed, contemporary atmosphere. You feel welcome and part of the family as soon as you arrive.

How would you describe your style of cooking?

I take a modern and relaxed approach to create a seasonal menu that uses the very best local produce. I believe our menu to be a celebration of Yorkshire suppliers. We experiment with different cooking techniques and our focus always remains on the flavours, textures and making each dish served to our guests unique and memorable.

Our fresh fish is from Hodgson’s of Hartlepool. Our meat is from Cockburn’s of Bedale and Farmison’s in Ripon. Most of our herbs are from the herb garden on the estate, along with wild garlic and wood sorrel. We are in the middle of restoring the estate’s kitchen garden – I can’t wait for it to be finished.

How experimental are you?

I always think about the season, what can I do that will challenge the kitchen and excite the guest. For example, the first course on the Taster Menu night was beetroot tartar, horseradish and sorrel. This dish comprised of raw beetroot served in a beetroot sauce, horseradish ice cream, pickled beetroot, sorrel, and beetroot powder. Guests were surprised by the savoury ice cream, which was a great way to mix the tradition up.

Explain the wine pairing with a Taster Menu?

Grace Matterson is our sommelier and I think her knowledge and palate really are the best in Yorkshire. I trust her completely to select the best wine to enhance each dish’s flavours and textures. I don’t drink wine – I’m more of a Champagne Charlie – but Grace has introduced me to some amazing wines so she might convert me yet!

Your greatest triumph of a dish?

It has to be our broccoli dish –chargrilled broccoli, tenderstem broccoli, pickled broccoli stalk, broccoli puree, Jerusalem artichoke puree, artichoke skin, toasted hazelnuts, Iberico belotta and aged parmesan. It’s been on the menu since day one, and over the past 18 months we’ve enhanced it. I would say it’s our signature dish.

There are trying times too. Take the horseradish ice cream during development - it was way too hot. We scaled it back and kept working on the dish until we created something magical. I believed in the dish from the start and I’m so glad we saw it through.

What would be your desert island dish?

I am renowned for having a sweet tooth. The staff nickname me Candy King as Sophie and I love our pick ‘n’ mix. And you can’t beat a cracking lemon tart.

What ingredient couldn’t you live without?

Acidity is quite a big part of our cooking, so as well as making our own vinegars, we use the amazing Minus 8 vinegar. Minus 8 is a family-owned vineyard in Niagara, Canada. Their flagship vinegar was named after the temperature at which the grapes are harvested. Acidity is important as it can be used to balance a dish, as well as taking it to the next level in terms of a finished product.

What dishes are you cooking up heading into summer?

We’ve just added a beautiful lamb dish, made up of saddle and breast, peas, lardo, samphire and sea aster. A dish that just flew out last year was our heritage tomato salad with truffle mayonnaise, balsamic pearls, mozzarella and basil. It’s back this year with basil oil instead of truffle mayonnaise. We are also making some amazing summer sweet treats for our Afternoon Tea. I eat far too many of these every day!

The Coach House at Middleton Lodge, Kneeton Lane, Middleton Tyas DL10 6NJ. T: 01325-377977; W: middletonlodge.co.uk