Finding supreme comfort, fine meals and exceptional service on board his ship, Tim Wellock takes it easy on a perfect cruise down the River Rhine

FOR those not of a beach persuasion, there can be no better way to spend a holiday than cruising down the Rhine with AmaWaterways.

Little known in England, they recently opened an office in London to raise their profile as the best in the business. The 2016 Berlitz guide for Europe gave their ships the top 11 places and they have also been ranked best for food.

Supreme comfort, meals which are a social and gastronomic delight, and exceptional service form the basis for a perfect trip. The substance is provided by the itinerary.

There's plenty of time to relax, notably on the mighty Rhine's famously scenic stretch with its 30 castles and the Lorelei Rock. But the opportunity to visit Amsterdam, Cologne, Koblenz, Rudesheim, Heidelberg, Strasbourg and Basel in one week while sleeping in the same bed is the stuff of dreams.

From the Netherlands, through Germany to Switzerland, but for some the highlight might be a detour into the vine-clad Vosges foothills in France to visit the enchanting village of Riquewihr.

Everything is organised with absolute precision, otherwise the German stereotype is banished by the emphasis on fun. This grows from the cruise manager through the guides to a crescendo with the evening entertainment.

It all fosters an infectious camaraderie with surprising results, notably some senior citizens performing the chicken dance, fuelled by the famous Rudesheimer coffee, which is poured into flaming brandy and topped with whipped cream.

Then during a music quiz each group was required to provide at least one member to sing My Way. Most seemed to include a capable crooner, so our tuneless quartet opted to attempt the Sid Vicious version.

It prompted our cruise manager, Cesario, to stuff serviettes in his ears, but he concluded his farewell address on a serious note when he observed: “We have big ships and little ships, but most of all we have friendship.”

AmaWaterways

Founded in 2002, the company has 21 ships operating on the major rivers of Europe, plus the Mekong and in Myanmar and southern Africa. Trips suit a variety of tastes and in our case the city tours were tailored to fitness levels, involving bikes, hard or easy walking. The president and CEO, Rudi Schreiner, trained as an architect and has used his design skills to develop craft which are luxurious and functional. Unlike some rival operators, they have never had to cancel through a lack of water depth. Rudi and his wife, Kristin Karst, met while working for another cruise company and decided they could do it better. Their attention to detail and customer care sets them apart, for example sending round hot tea when we were on deck in a biting wind admiring the scenic stretch in its autumn glory.

The ship

We travelled on the Amacerto, 110 metres in length and just wide enough to squeeze through the locks. It accommodates 162 in twin-balconied en-suite staterooms below a sundeck which incorprates a small, heated pool and a large chess board. The TV in each room provides internet access. There's ample wardrobe space with plenty of hangers, and in your absence at dinner a chocolate appears on each pillow and a newsletter details the following day's programme.

Food and drink

Breakfast is a buffet offering traditional fare or copious healthy alternatives. You can have a freshly-cooked omelette or eggs benedict. Lunch is timed to fit in with on-shore excursions and offers a light snack in the lounge or three courses with wine in the dining room. Wine, or beer, is also served throughout the superb four-course dinners as part of the package. The German Rieslings in these parts are excellent.

The itinerary

After a cocktail reception and dinner, the first night is spent in Amsterdam with a canal tour the following morning, plus some free time before setting sail for Cologne, where a massive carnival was well underway by 10am. This is the home of Kolsch beer and the locals certainly know how to party. The only downside was that the magnificent twin-spired Gothic cathedral was closed. Our entertaining guide pointed to the spot nearby where J F Kennedy said: “Ich bin ein Berliner”, which in Cologne means: “I am a jelly doughnut.”

Overnight we were in the lovely city of Koblenz, followed by an afternoon in the even lovelier Rudesheim after a morning of peaceful rapture sailing down the Rhine Gorge. In Rudesheim we were taken for a wine tasting, where Hans the host's theatrical presentation was often hilarious. Then there was free time to wander the quaint, cobbled streets among the half-timbered houses. It was here, in a warmly welcoming cafe called Rudesheimer Schloss, that we spent the convivial evening where the chicken dance was performed.

The next port of call was Speyer, with another cathedral to be admired. But a choice had to be made, and most opted for the 45-minute ride to Heidelberg. Set in a steep-sided valley on the River Neckar, this ancient university city would be an attraction even without its awe-inspiring castle. Strasbourg, again with a magnificent cathedral, proved worthy of a full day, then came Riquewihr and a half day in Basel before flying home.

Travel Facts

Tim Wellock was a guest of AmaWaterways (www.amawaterways.com) on their Enchanting Rhine cruise. Flights are arranged to Amsterdam and back from Basel, with connections provided. The cost of the all-inclusive cruise and tours ranges from £1,866 to £2,399.