Former chemist Andrew Wildsmith has hit on a fantastic formula for keeping his hotel guests happy, says Jenny Needham

The Lake District has long been famed for its extraordinary beauty, which has inspired writers and poets to great heights. Now it’s inspiring chefs to new heights, too, and fast becoming one of the top foodie destinations in the country. An increasing number of venues in the region have garnered praise – and Michelin stars – for their culinary prowess and Cumbria is home to such attractions as L’Enclume, The Samling and Holbeck Ghyll.

A rising star in the gastronomic firmament hereabouts is entrepreneur Andrew Wildsmith, who, since the opening in the autumn of a new venture in Grasmere, now has three foodie hotels – the Michelin recommended Ryebeck Country House & Restaurant in Bowness-on-Windermere, which has a 2AA rosette restaurant; Hipping Hall, which has a three AA rosette restaurant, and his new high-end boutique offering, Forest Side Hotel, in Grasmere. A trained chemist, after studying for a PhD in Cambridge, Wildsmith decided instead to go into the hospitality business. And he seems to have hit on a winning formula.

Wildsmith says a top-notch food offering is key to his business strategy, the sort of culinary creations people could never prepare at home or find in a pub. He’s known for being hands-on, but when it comes to menus, likes to let his chefs have their head. That way, he says, their individuality and passion for the craft shines through. A look at the glowing reviews on Tripadvisor suggest his calculations are correct. Food is to the forefront of all the comments and guests are obviously wowed by the offering, many returning again and again for second helpings.

Our first taste of a Wildsmith hotel was on a spring break to the Lakes, just an hour cross country from Teesdale on the A66. The heavy clouds of the previous day had dissipated and shafts of sunlight rained gold onto the dramatic landscape as we negotiated the windy way to The Ryebeck, with its view of Windermere.

Once called Fayrer Holme, this elegant country house was built for a prestigious Edwardian gentleman on five acres of landscaped gardens on the former Storrs Park estate. It was bought by Wildsmith’s father Eric, who found himself without enough to do on early retirement from the pharmaceuticals business, and his son learned his trade here, starting at the bottom up.

Now renamed, the Ryebeck is a peaceful and unpretentious country house hotel, with comfortable bar and lounges, and extensive grounds. Furnishings and décor reflect the history of the place, while also adding contemporary touches. Dinner in the conservatory-style restaurant overlooking Lake Windermere is a real treat, with a menu created by talented head chef Dominic Clarke which includes canapes and freshly-made bread. It is obviously as popular with locals as tourists and was very busy on a wet, windy night at the end of March. Dishes include sticky pig’s cheek with apple and celeriac, and 48-hour slow-cooked beef bourgignon, and I particularly enjoyed the novelty of Tuna on a Rock with shitake parfait and kimchi, which involved cooking my own little tuna steak at the table on a very hot stone.

Wildsmith’s first hotel venture, though, was Hipping Hall, just outside Kirkby Lonsdale. Once owned by resourceful blacksmiths, this early 18th-century country pile stands in lovely countryside just outside Kirkby Lonsdale. Totally refurbished when Wildsmith bought the hotel 11 years ago, it’s a relaxed and welcoming home-from-home. His latest project here has been the conversion of a stylish stable block just a short trot from the main building. The new suites can be used as rooms for guests using the hotel facilities, or if a minimum of four rooms are taken, a party can have exclusive use of the private lounge and dining room above. An exclusive package can include champagne and canapés to begin your meal, a tasting menu and accompanying wines, rounding off with coffee petit fours in the lounge while the dining room is set for a private breakfast in the morning.

In the main hotel, guests dine in the Great Hall, a magnificent 15th century balconied dining room with beams hewn from the broken skeletons of old ships. But even amid these impressive surroundings, the food once again takes centre stage. Chef Oli Martin creates a constantly changing, modern British menu from his kitchen garden and local produce and the tasting menu is nothing short of superb. Highlights include such mouth-watering delights as Pigeon with Hazelnut and Elderberry; Monkfish Bisque with Sea Herbs; and Meadowsweet, Blood Orange and Salsify. An optional wine pairing costs an extra £39.50, and it’s all served by the charming and knowledgeable staff.

“Andrew has set the bar very high in his hotels,” says Hipping’s general manager Robert Scott. “He started here at Hipping Hall before going on to take over The Rybeck and our new addition, Forest Side. And although each hotel is very individual, with three very different chefs, his focus is on amazing food, skilfully put together by creative and passionate people.” The thing they all have in common is quality.

Dogs aren’t forgotten either. The hotel has a couple of canine-friendly rooms and, as well as a fluffy towel, our scruffy border terrier enjoyed some tasty dog biscuits, top-quality, of course. “I get them from Booths,” laughs Rob.

The Ryebeck Hotel, Lyth Valley Road, Bowness-on-Windermere LA23 3JP. T: 015394-88195; W: ryebeck.com. Double rooms from £89, including breakfast.

Hipping Hall, Cowan Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale, LA6 2JJ. T: 015242-71187; W: hippinghall.com. Doubles from £165 per night, including breakfast. The Tasting Menu is £65 per head.

For information on the Lake District visit golakes.co.uk