THERE is something a little odd about arriving at a restaurant for the first time and discovering that you have already eaten many of the dishes on the menu, yet this was the case when my husband, Paul, and I visited Jamie’s Italian in Newcastle – one of a chain owned by the celebrity chef.

Scanning the list of pasta dishes was like greeting old friends – Jamie’s sausage pappardelle, prawn linguine, fresh crab spaghettini and even wild rabbit casarecce have all graced our dinner table, courtesy of his many books on Italian food. As the cook of the household (I “talk a good meal”, but this rarely translates to practice) Paul was interested to see how these familiar recipes would be executed by a Jamieapproved professional.

The evening had started promisingly.

Having tried in vain to book, we had arrived there at about 8.30pm to try for one of the tables set aside for walk-in diners.

There was no trouble in getting one at all and we were led through the labyrinthine restaurant to the upstairs level and seated comfortably beside the serving counter.

Jamie’s Italian has a style of its own – industrial and warehouse-like with exposed metal pipes and bare wood, giving it a contemporary feel in keeping with the chef ’s young and funky image. On a busy Saturday night, the cavernous dining room managed to feel cosy, with a stunning view of Grey’s Monument and the regal-looking Grey Street. A mural of a broken ribcage with a flower representing the heart and a bird apparently sewing the bones together provided an interesting talking point.

Service was prompt and efficient, with the abundance of young staff breezing seamlessly from table to table. Our waitress was friendly and obliging and happy to answer our questions about the meats hanging above the counter – apparently the spicy Italian ham takes its shape from having been used as a pillow by soldiers during the war.

Although Jamie has been to the restaurant, staff are more accustomed to seeing Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo, who creates menus and conducts training.

Having previously liked the look of the recipe, Paul chose the grilled asparagus bruschetta with lemony mozzarella and smashed minty peas (£5.50) as a starter. The asparagus was deliciously fresh, but, for him, the taste of the peas could have come through a little more strongly.

For main courses, we were both attracted by fish, with Paul opting for a dish entitled Our Famous Prawn Linguine – prawns fried in garlic with fennel, tomatoes, chilli and rocket (£12.95) – while I went for the special of pan-fried hake fillet with saffron and mussel risotto and rocket (£15.95).

Having chosen something relatively safe, along similar lines to the type of dish he cooks at home, Paul felt the linguine was really lifted by the fennel and thoroughly enjoyed this take on a classic. I was equally pleased with my choice. The fish was moist with a crispy skin and went perfectly with the delicately-flavoured risotto – a dish I would definitely encourage Paul to emulate.

We shared a side order described as Jamie’s Must-Try Cime di Rapa (£3.25) – baby Italian broccoli with olives, garlic and lemon butter – and found the recommendation justified. The broccoli was dark green and delicious and flavoured with a lovely, unctuous dressing.

The portions were generous, leaving us with no room for pudding, but had we wanted one, the list included “epic”

homemade brownie (£5.25) and Amalfi lemon meringue cheesecake (£5.25).

While most restaurants cater for children, not all could be described as child-friendly, yet, due to its relaxed atmosphere, I would feel comfortable taking my two girls, aged six and four, to Jamie’s Italian. They would be happy with dishes like spaghetti bolognese (£5.95) or fish fingers (£5.95).

For those so impressed by their visit that they are keen to take home a souvenir, there is plenty of opportunity to buy Jamieinspired products including terracotta dishes, planks and, of course, the full range of recipe books.

The chef himself may not have much direct involvement, but his presence is tangible throughout, most notably in the description of dishes, in which you can almost hear his voice.

Food facts
Jamie’s Italian,
Unit 3, Monument Mall, Newcastle
Phone: 0191-500-0858

Food Quality: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Surrroundings: 4/5
Value: 4/5