REALISING I’d never written a nomessing- about, no-holds-barred, really scathing review, the thought struck: “I’m too soft.” Perhaps filled with the bonhomie of enjoying a meal with a couple of drinks, I’d soft-pedalled on some legitimate criticism.

So it was with a hyper-critical attitude and in a slightly bad mood after a long day at work, that I entered the village pub in Carlton Village, near Stockton. As I crossed the threshold, I felt quite proud of myself for dreaming up some scathing review phrases.

And so it is with a heavy heart that I write that the food, especially for the price, was very good, the service was attentive and the surroundings convivial. Dining at The Smiths Arms is a thoroughly pleasant experience.

That’s despite the fact this small pubrestaurant has often changed hands and, under new ownership since last November, is still in the early days of building up a serious reputation.

There were some criticisms. Most seriously, some of the starters and main meals were not available, sold out, despite there being a fairly simple menu. There was a minor quibble with my bill (I’d been slightly overcharged, no big deal was made of it and it was very quickly put right).

And, er, that’s it.

I didn’t like the dark carpet much, if that counts. So much for my scathing review.

Now for the good stuff: the food was at times excellent.

A starter and main meal from the standard menu cost £12.50 – a genuine bargain for the quality of food. I, though, paid a £2 surcharge to experience the scallops with black pudding and apple to start. The scallops were cooked just right, the black pudding was soft, the apple gave a sweetness that complemented the food.

And there was plenty of it – if anything, too much.

Try as I might, I could find nothing whatsoever to criticise as I sipped my cold Kronenbourg (£3.50).

Simone, my Irish girlfriend, drinking a thirst-quenching Thatcher’s Gold cider (£3.50), skipped the starter and went for an (£8) main course of chicken with leek dumplings with vegetable broth and potato.

The chicken, lightly fried on the surface, was thick. Once again, no skimping here.

And yet it wasn’t dry but was tender throughout. The dumplings were no heavier than they needed to be and the shallow layer of broth really served to keep the chicken moist and the plentiful vegetables tender. As good a homely, comforting course as you might hope for in a village pub.

I went for the smoked chicken risotto. I love risotto and, nice and simple to make but with the chance to fancify, various risottos and paellas are the meals I make when we’re entertaining. Needless-tosay, this beat anything I could make at home and had a lovely smoky taste and consistently tender texture.

Puddings included dark chocolate ale cake (£5.50), “deconstructed” black forest gateau (£6.50) and a selection of cheeses (£6.50).

We were tempted by the “deconstructed”

black forest gateau, just to find out what the deconstructed bit meant, but instead tried the toffee apple crumble and vanilla ice-cream (£5.50). We were already full (we were given bread, even before our starter), and even sharing and with my gargantuan appetite, could barely finish this sweet, classic pub pudding.

Afterwards, we left the small restaurant – once the village blacksmiths – and the gossip centre of this village, and had a drink in the bar.

Falling into conversation with the new chef/owner, Gary Patchett, interrupting his paperwork, his enthusiasm for the project came through. Clearly a genuine foodie, he has already held an eight-course meal for £35 and it was such a success he’s hoping to make it a regular experience.

Chatting in the pub in this pleasant, Norman village (it’s thought Carlton was first destroyed by the Normans before they rebuilt it), my only criticism of the experience was not being able to stay longer.

  • Last week's meal at Fratellos cost £72.

Due to production problems this fact was missing from our review.

FOOD FACTS

The Smiths Arms
Carlton Village, near Stockton, TS21 1EA 
Tel: 01740-630471
Web: smithsarmspub.co.uk
Open: Noon-2pm and 5pm to 9.30pm, Monday to Friday. From noon to 9.30pm on Saturdays
and noon to 4pm on Sundays.

Quality: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Ambience: 3/5 
Value: 4/5