Ken Snowdon finds that the train to Spain is anything but staying anywhere plain

THIS is a first for me. I'm on a 200mph train zipping through the French countryside heading to Spain. That's very cool as well as being very fast.

My challenge was to get from the seaside at Seaton Carew to Benidorm. The route takes me to London, then the channel tunnel to Paris before a night in Barcelona. Next day it's high speed to Alicante and a small privately-run railway to Benidorm. That's two days sitting on trains. I'm not sure even train spotters would manage that.

First, to London on Grand Central, a train company that seems to be run by friendly enthusiasts (they should give their staff anoraks). The journey is swift, familiar and on time. The first burst of real speed is on the Eurostar. After passing east London's urban decay, there are picturesque views like the magnificent Queen Elizabeth II suspension bridge and from the viaduct high over the River Medway. We look down on boats in the river Medway as the Eurostar picks up speed through the green fields of Kent, dotted with small villages around the North Downs.

The Channel Tunnel takes 20 minutes at 100mph and we accelerate onto the French high speed line. This follows the contours of the land so we rise over gentle hills and lower into valleys. So far – almost five hours in – it's been relaxing, interesting and trouble free.

In Paris, I change stations for the double-decked TGV train to Barcelona. After the outskirts of Paris the stone-built villages are surrounded by green fields, livestock and crops. Later gentle hills are scaled up into mountains (on a clear day you can see the French Alps on one side and the Massif central on the other). Speeding through the Rhone Valley it seemed a good time for lunch and some red wine. Three hours later it's Nimes then Montpellier. I see glimpses of the Mediterranean for the first time from a train window; Beziers with its boats and ancient cathedral on top of a hill; after Narbonne there are lakes on both sides of the train. At Perpignan the vineyards end as we pass the tail end of the Pyrenees with wind turbines waving lazily. The view now is blue sky, snow-specked mountains, green trees and the burnt yellow fields of Spain as we pass Figueres where Salvador Dali lived, Girona and then Barcelona. In six-and-a-half hours (it didn't seem that long) I've really travelled. With a plane you arrive at an airport, leave the planet and reconnect at your destination. With the train, you have a real sense of journey made. You're getting somewhere and you can see it. You notice things change. It's definitely more real.

I stay at the Barcelo Sants, right on the station. A wacky "galactic" theme means reception is the Boarding Desk, you stay in Orbital Guestrooms and there's space-themed artwork all over. It's not overdone though. There are earthly comforts too like terrific views and a very big, comfy bed. Should you fancy watching telly, eating and being in bed all at the same time there are bed tables hanging on the wall.

The next day it's the Spanish railway for the five-hour journey to Alicante on a EuroMed train. Like every train so far, the seating is very comfortable and the speed is fantastic and once again the best show is through the window. North of Valencia the line often runs parallel to the Mediterranean. Afterwards the route cuts inland so the sea gives way to hills, mountains and golden brown countryside with irrigated patches of green. We arrive in Alicante spot on time.

The final part of the journey is in stark contrast to the high-speed trains that got me here. A short stroll up the Avenida de La Estacion brings me to Luceros station. Twice an hour a little electric modern train takes you from Alicante to Benidorm, hugging the coast and offering great views of the sea during its 18 stops.

You could stay in Benidorm and return the same way or do what I did and go home from Valencia and explore the region in between. You can't do this by train as there is no railway line connecting the two so I hired a car. Europcar have an office in Benidorm and a one-way rental allowed for some excellent exploration along the N332 coast road for a few days. Drop off at Valencia is simple. Use the signed spaces in the train station car park and the Europcar offices are right by the entrance.

From Valencia the overnight is in Paris. The Mercure Paris Terminus Nord Hotel is opposite the station. Once again, that essential – the large comfy bed – is provided. Good breakfast too. Some rooms have views of Montmartre and Sacré Coeur. Mine had a balcony which overlooked the station. I watched dusk fall on the busy street below as I nursed my final red wine of the day, unstressed, with the Eurostar and Grand Central home to look forward to. You know, I might just buy an anorak.

 

TRAVEL FACTS

London to Alicante fares start at £223

Grand central fares to london starts from £11.10

Barcelo Sants rooms from £90