Peter Barron checks out the hype surrounding a teashop overlooking the village green at Sedgefield

EVERY now and again, a name keeps cropping up in conversation and "Number Four Teashop" is a case in point.

We'd heard good things about the extensive menu at the Sedgefield family-run business, with its treasure trove counter full of home-made cakes, desserts, pies and tray-bakes.

An eye-catching advertisement in Living magazine was the final enticement so off we went last Saturday afternoon - myself, my wife Heather plus our daughter Hannah, home from London for the weekend and hoping for a family treat.

Number Four is bonny, friendly little place on the High Street, once a chemist but converted into a teashop in 1994. It overlooks the splendid village green, with three tables outside under umbrellas. With the sun shining for a pleasant change, that's where we plonked ourselves for a lazy treat.

How nice it would be, we thought, if the tables were allowed to be placed on the green, with three-tiered afternoon teas (great value at £11.95) being served across the road.

We resisted the temptation of afternoon teas and chose instead from one of the longest menus you are ever likely to encounter. The sandwich selection itself has 54 options, with 23 jacket potato fillings, and all kinds of tortilla wraps, hot panninis, quiches, salads, "standard specials" and "anytime traditionals".

But perhaps the selection is just too big. Two out of three of our choices - the Poached Scottish Atlantic Salmon Salad, and the Broccoli and Brie Rosti - were, sadly, unavailable.

To be fair, the apologies were repeated often as my wife and daughter re-selected, opting for Five Bean Salad With Minty Vinaigrette, and Two Gourmet Sea Bass and Lime Fishcakes (with mango, lime and ginger sauce).

Meanwhile, I struck lucky with my first choice of Creamy Chicken and Smokey Bacon Penne Pasta.

My wife and daughter wanted to share so asked for each of their selections to be divided equally - a fishcake each and half of the five bean salad.

When it arrived, it was the fishcakes and my penne pasta which had been shared. The waitress was full of sincere apologies again and offered to sort it out but we made do.

My dish wasn't actually penne - it was pasta shells. Nothing special and it could have been hotter.

The fishcakes, however, were a big hit - "very tasty indeed" - and the five bean salad was, well, just your average five bean salad.

For dessert, we really were spoilt for choice. After long deliberations, I plumped for pecan pie, my wife went for the glazed strawberry and blueberry custard tart, and Hannah fancied toffee cheesecake.

All were scrumptious though it was frustrating to have to wait for our big pot of tea which had been forgotten. That said, we were offered more hot water for a refill rather than having to buy more tea.

With three refreshing glasses of Fentiman's (rose lemonade, mandarin and Seville orange jigger, and dandelion and burdock) at the beginning, our bill came to £45.25 which we considered reasonable enough.

Number Four is clearly going great guns but there may be a danger of it becoming a victim of its own success. It was extremely busy while we were there and the rushed-off-their-feet staff were talking about a possible extension upstairs. There had been a surge in custom, some coming all the way from Northumberland, since the Living magazine advert, they told us.

A nice extra touch is that Number Four delivers to elderly people in the village, with one house-bound lady a particularly regular customer.

In truth, it was all a bit chaotic but the staff were very nice despite the mix-ups. It was also a final frustration to discover they only take cash, and to have to pop to the cash-point at the Co-op next door.

Having said all of that, we'd certainly go back to Number Four Teashop for tea and cake treats. Iron out the glitches, expand upstairs, and it really will come to the Four.

FOOD FACTS

Number Four Teashop, High Street, Sedgefield.

Telephone: 01740 623344

Open 9am to 6pm Mondays to Saturdays inclusive. 10am to 4pm Sundays and Bank Holidays.

FOOD: 4/5

 SERVICE: 3/5

VALUE FOR MONEY: 3/5

AMBIENCE: 4/5