Gavin Havery discovers the busy Derwent Walk Inn has glorious views and a roaring fire

FEW things can be as welcoming at the start of an English winter than a roaring fire in a traditional pub on a chilly day. But with two bouncing kids under five, and an Akita dog at a nearby table, I did wonder as we took our seats whether we could have been at the start of an episode of Holby City.

Tilda, four, and Finn, two, can be handful at the best of times. Ask them to sit still during a three-course meal and you may as well be asking them to recite a Shakespearean sonnet. Then there was the risk of a severe burns from the roaring, with the added element of danger of dog bites if the Akita were to become over-excited.

However, it turned out to be under control and well-behaved, save for the odd gruff bark that occasionally startled the children, but helped keep them in line.

It was busy when we visited on a dusky Saturday afternoon, bustling even, and we relished "getting a warm’ by the real fire. Not too close, obviously, and in retrospect a fire guard might not be a bad investment here.

The Derwent Walk Inn, on Ebchester Bank, has lovely views of the Derwent Valley, which were fading with the light during our visit, but what a glorious spot.

The traditional bar has a good range of real ales and I sampled thoroughly enjoyable shandy pints of Hobgoblin and Snecklifter over the course of the meal. Other fine bitters are available.

The choice of food is wide-ranging and the options tempting, but we decided to start proceedings with chicken liver and pork pate with toast and sweet tomato chutney (£4.95) and Thai fishcakes with a sweet chilli dip (£4.95).

The pate was rich and smooth and just right with the thin triangles of perfectly crisp toast and a smattering of attractive salad.

While the fishcakes were tasty and enjoyable, they seemed a bit more potato than fish, which was fine for flavour, but made them a little squishy. Pleasant, nonetheless.

For the main, I went for the 8oz sirloin steak (£14.95) with Diane sauce (£2).

It was a fair sized piece of meat, well cooked and although it was fine it was just that and nothing more. Enjoyable enough, but perhaps it was the lack of fat or marbling that made it, in my opinion, just ordinary.

The homemade chips, however were a triumph and simply delicious, swimming about in a sumptuous creamy Diane sauce, with more chopped mushrooms on the side, a fried tomato and crispy fried onion rings.

My mam went off menu and chose from the daily chalkboard of specials. Her salmon escalope with prawn kebab in white wine and cream sauce with boiled potatoes, carrots and cauliflower (£13.95) was generous in size and went down very well also. No complaints from her.

To finish, I had the homemade sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce with custard, something of a favourite. While it was spongy and there was certainly butterscotch flavour in the mix, I could have done with more evidence of sticky toffee, just to give it a little more oomph.

The kids, who had neither been bitten nor set themselves alight, were delighted with their pudding of ice cream from a choice of flavours including mint choc chip and chocolate and caramel.

Desserts set you back £4.50, and again there is a good range to choose from.

Service was fast, efficient and friendly and the pub was lively, with many people dining, suggesting its reputation keeps people coming back for more.

Despite a few minor quibbles it is easy to see why.

Food Facts

 

The Derwents Walk Inn, Ebchester Hill, Consett, DH8 0SX

Tel: 01207-560347

Website: derwentwalkinn.co.uk

Food quality: 3/5

Service: 4/5

Ambience: 4/5

Value for money: 4.5