‘WHO does not know the famous Swan? ” asked poet William Wordsworth in The Waggoner, his ballad about a North Country itinerant. He obviously knew “the famous Swan” quite well, because he skipped off there many a morning to have breakfast with his pal Sir Walter Scott.

We were walking in the footsteps of such literary greats, and upon arrival, walk we did – until we had deposited what seemed like the contents of our house in a double and a twin room at The Swan. That’s the thing about the Lake District – when you have no idea what the weather will do, you take the entire wardrobe.

The Swan is a 17th Century former coaching inn and one of the oldest hotels in the Lakes. It stands imposingly, facing onto a T-junction, alongside the A591, which runs between Grasmere and Keswick. It’s a short walk from the village of Grasmere, where William Wordsworth lived for 14 years, and where he is buried in the churchyard.

Now with 37 bedrooms, The Swan has been added to over the years, but it’s not obvious where new meets old. The latest refurbishment took place recently, costing £350,000, and staff are already talking about another one soon. As with many extended properties, inside it’s like a maze.

With oodles of old world charm, log fires in winter, a private garden with views of Helm Crag and a walkers’ bar, as well as a dog-friendly policy, it was the perfect weekend break for our tribe – my husband Ian, our son Jack, Jack’s friend George, both 14, and our well-travelled hound, Buddy the border terrier.

The staff seemed genuinely happy to see two 14-year-old boys tucking into the chocolates on their reception, and were helpful without being intrusive.

Our breakfasts were included in our rate, but at £17.50 per person, we expected a top-quality feast and we weren’t disappointed by our morning sojourn to The Waggoner’s Restaurant. To start there were juices, fruits, yoghurts, cereals, breads, continental meats and croissants that Jack and George gave their “top croissant award” to, and all that was followed by bacon, sausages, eggs, beans, mushrooms, black pudding and toast – three days’ calories in one half-hour.

Dinner is another feast and, at £27.95 per person for three courses, it’s a bargain. Starters included a delicious John Ross Junior smoked salmon with crab and red pepper mousse, and a pressed ham hock, while mains were a pan-fried duck breast and confit leg, and top-notch rib-eye steak. The children’s menu was more basic – chicken nuggets made an appearance, but they were very posh nuggets, exquisitely presented.

Although the hotel doesn’t have a spa, its sister property, The Macdonald Old England Hotel and Spa, in Bowness, has the full works – a 20-metre pool, sauna, steam room and ice room, as well as a gym, which guests at The Swan can use for free. It’s a 30-minute drive, or better still, get the open-top 599 bus in summer. Upon our arrival, there was some good-natured ribbing in the spa reception queue, followed by a photo, and then we realised why. Former Manchester United footballer Gary Neville was using the spa. Our friend George promptly hid everything about him that told the world he supports Chelsea and even I wished I’d bought a new cossie for the trip.

With stunning walks around the lake at Grasmere, gingerbread at Sarah Nelson’s famous shop, and Wordsworth’s Dove Cottage nearby, we left agreeing with the great poet, who described the village as “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found”.

We could see why – in their own way, good food, great walks and ex-Premiership footballers nearby were inspirational to each one of us too.

  • The Swan, Keswick Road, Grasmere, Cumbria, LA22 9RF. Prices start at £119 for a double or twin classic room, based on two people sharing.

Dinner, bed and breakfast starts at £159. Dogs are allowed in classic rooms only at £15 per night.

  • Call 0844-879-9120 or visit macdonaldhotels.co.uk/ourhotels/ macdonald-swan-hotel