Janet Gleeson visits a Northern city which is constantly reinventing itself and wants to see its name up in lights as the next European Capital of Culture

LEEDS is going for the big sell. The Rough guide to Britain has put it as one of the best shopping destinations in the UK, but there’s also history, culture, and entertainment, so there are good reasons why the city is bidding to be the European Capital of Culture in 2023, despite the UK voting to exit with Brexit.

Eternal optimism could be one of the city's main attributes, and with a constant array of events and festivals to keep locals and visitors interested, you can see why they’ve been listed as one of the three UK bidders for the title. So only an hour from most areas of the north by train or road it makes an ideal overnight or weekend getaway.

A stunning example of what’s on offer was the recent Light Nights Festival. Jolly as well as illuminating, it flooded the city with light through up to 50 assorted installations.

Stand out events were a lantern parade, with stilt walkers leading the dazzling display of water inspired fish, snails and turtles snaking their way through the town; The Phoenix In the Stone, rising out of the City Hall building to a musical accompaniment and the cascading waterfall of light tumbling down the front of The Queen, the cities most glamorous Art Deco hotel, were impressive.

Historically it was a minnow until the industrial revolution when wool, brought in from the surrounding vast sheep breeding areas, turned it into a global economy. The Leeds/ Liverpool canal and later the railways brought prosperity and maintained the connection with the rest of the world, as Leeds turned itself into one of the leading business and industrial centres in the North.

Our blue badge guide, gave us the potted tour of Leeds, and while many historic buildings have been swept away in the march for modernity and the urge to create and keep the ever important “Yorkshire brass” there are still many highspots, and the area has more listed buildings than any British city outside London.

The Corn Exchange, built in 1864, is an architectural masterpiece with a huge glass half roof, all the better to pick out the best corn and wool specimens, it was at the heart of trading and still is. One of only three corn exchanges left in the country it is preserved as a centre for independent shops and events.

The unparalleled indoor market is a must see, fantastically preserved with gloriously Victorian touches it’s one of the biggest in Europe. They’ve even recreated the original Marks and Spencer stall, from where the partners kicked off the huge shopping empire.

A trip on a free water taxi will take you to the Royal Armouries museum. Home of Britain’s national collection of arms and armour and a big free attraction for young and old. There are over 75,000 objects, tracing the endless battle to protect, conquer or just show off, by generations of humans. Most were stored in the Tower of London but now you can see for yourself some of the oldest weapons in the world, from the very first spears, knives, swords, armour and guns to the most modern. Guides offer a fascinating insight and it's worth homing in on the many tours

On the cities doorstep is a major attraction for period drama and historic house devotees. Harewood House, is being used as one of the backdrops for ITV’s Victoria series, which is due back again next year. The fabulous house and estate, dating back to 1750, and still owned by the Lascelles family is stuffed with a lot of the original, largely Chippendale, furniture and is well worth a look. There’s a 4,000 acre estate as well which houses a splendid bird garden and deer park. From March they’re staging an exhibition of the filming of Victoria, and let’s hope unlike Queen Victoria herself we will be amused.

Retail therapy is top of the list for many visitors, and while Harvey Nichols chose Leeds for its first base outside London prompting Lonely Planet to dub it the “Knightsbridge of the North.” it also has one of the biggest Primarks in the region. So variety is the spice of life when it comes to shopping.

There’s also the classy Victorian arcades which have attracted many high end names including Vivienne Westwood. The ambitious new Victoria Gate centre, aims to build on that upmarket legacy and John Lewis has thrown it’s weight behind it, with the mainstream Trinity shopping centre adding to the variety.

Eating is also varied, extensive and even adventurous, the independent Friends of Ham is a culinary experience, samples of hand crafted beer are on trial, with an extensive range, some from just down the road. Palma Violet IPA was a surprise, Black forest Strannik was sheer beer drinkers nectar. Food was charcuterie and cheese with a wide and tasty selection, try the fennel chorizo.

For dinner Blackhouse is the Grill on the Square and specialises in “simple, honest food” in the heart of the city in East Parade, with a relaxed, modern feel, offering 28 day old steaks from £16.50 to the Wagyu at a whopping £55, if you want to really push the boat out.

Leeds has worked hard to reinvent itself emerging from the shadow of industrial dominance to a booming business, cultural and retail centre, and it's close enough to put it to the test yourself.

Janet Gleeson was a guest of visitleeds.co.uk