Charming Ambleside is just one of many jewels in The Lake District’s crown. Andrew White enjoys a whiff of luxury

HAVE you noticed you can usually tell what kind of hotel you’re in by its smell? For example, I was recently staying in a traditional seaside B&B and the moment I stepped inside I was instantly reminded of childhood coastal holidays spent in cheap and cheerful accommodation.

Somehow I could sense that the landlady would be jolly, the cooked breakfasts would be huge and the shower would be on the blink. My olfactory powers had not let me down – I was right in all respects.

The Waterhead at Ambleside – the Lake District’s only four-star contemporary town house hotel – was an altogether different experience. The handsome hotel oozes style and class – and believe me you can smell it. The aroma that first hits you is of clean, crisp linen, closely followed by freshly roasted coffee. It just has the satisfying whiff of luxury and sophistication.

The Waterhead was to be our base for two nights during our trip to the charming town at the head of Windermere. My partner, Frances, and I had not visited the Lakes for a number of years. We soon remembered what we had been missing on the drive over, a journey punctuated by ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ as the stunning hills and mountains of the national park honed into view.

The Waterhead is in a prime location, on the shores of England’s largest natural lake and just half-a-mile from picturesque Ambleside. The centre of town is a 15-minute walk away – well that’s how long it would have taken us had we not stopped to take in the stunning lakeside view at nearby Borrans Park and explore the fascinating remains of Ambleside Roman fort which we spotted on our way.

Ambleside itself is charming. The town is full of nooks and crannies, interesting buildings, inviting shops and welcoming pubs.

The quirky Bridge House – literally a house on a bridge – is perhaps its most famous building. A 17th century relic, this tiny structure – over the years it’s been a tea-room, a weaving shop, a cobbler’s and a chair maker’s – once housed a family of eight, which seems incredible today.

When in the Lake District it is almost obligatory to go for a walk, so we decided to explore a little further out – an Ambleside amble if you will. Not feeling particularly energetic, We decided to visit Stock Ghyll Force, just a short and easy walk from the town. We’re waterfall fans, so were bound to be impressed by the cascade, which can be viewed from several precarious vantage points. After exploring the falls we pushed onwards and upwards a little further through nearby Blue Hill Wood.

As usual on wanders like this, it is often unheralded and unforeseen features that make them more memorable. Highlights on this walk included a grassy knoll which offered great views of the town and lake from the top and a disused quarry which hid another small waterfall – in truth little more than a trickle, but it still counts in our book. Just as it’s the little touches that separate an average walk from a top-drawer one, it’s the same with hotels.

At the Waterhead, we were impressed by the elegant bedroom complete with complementary ginger biscuits, nuts and jelly beans, the excellent selection of teas and coffees, the turn-down service and the hotel’s polite and attentive staff. There was also a small bottle of gin waiting for us – fitting because the spirit is a speciality at the Waterhead.

The bar boasts an extensive gin menu, with a dizzying choice of dozens of traditional, local and fashionable gins, a range of tonics and a variety of garnishes. It would have been rude not to indulge. The hotel also roasts its own coffee – explaining one of the smells on our arrival – and has an excellent restaurant, the Bar & Grill, where we enjoyed a superb evening meal.

All in all we enjoyed a first-class break in a first-rate hotel, which we rounded off with the short walk over the road to the jetty where we hopped on a cruiser to spend a relaxing couple of hours in the neighbouring town of Bowness. It doesn’t get much better.

TRAVEL FACTS

Andrew and Frances stayed at The Waterhead in Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 0ER. Facilities include: 41 bedrooms with en-suite and daily housekeeping; restaurant, Bar & Grill; free wifi; free guest parking; electric charging point; free use of local leisure club. Dogs welcome.

Rooms from £139 per night.

Contact details: room reservations 0333-4141-307; general enquiries 015394-32566; email waterhead@englishlakes.co.uk