Quirky quince

AMONG the apples and pears in the kitchen garden at RHS Garden Harlow Carr are to be found some less common fruits: the medlar tree, for example, is always a curiosity, but at the moment it is the quince with its gold/green fuzzy fruit which is creating interest. This attractive tree with its knotted branches is especially striking in autumn when the fruits ripen and turn to gold. If you get a little closer, you can see the fuzzy bloom on the fruit, and perhaps catch the aroma of their exotic perfume - a single fruit can scent a whole room.

Not to be confused with the ornamental oriental quinces (Chaenomeles), the true quince, Cydonia oblonga, is a deciduous tree, native of South West Asia, Persia and Turkey, cultivated from ancient times and naturalised in southern Europe. The ancient Greeks called it after Cydon in Crete where it grew well. First mentioned in England in the 13th Century, this tree needs warm growing conditions so does well in the south, or in a sheltered position elsewhere. In central and southern Europe, the fruit ripens properly and sweetens; here it can't be eaten raw and has to be bletted or cooked.

The quince is a long-lived tree, up to 5m in height and spread, and needs little attention once established. A member of the Rosaceae family, like its close relation the pear, in spring it bears abundant, large pale pink flowers which are pollinated by bees. The leaves are downy, like the immature fruits. The fruit is apple or pear-shaped, with white down on the skin, turning to pale or deep clear yellow when ripe. It is hard, astringent and gritty, and is famously used for making jelly or jam. Marmalade comes from the Portuguese word for quince - marmello – although we tend to use citrus fruits for marmalade now.

There are many varieties to choose from, on different rootstocks to control size primarily: Quince A (semi-vigorous for bush trees), Quince C (dwarf and early into cropping), Eline (dwarf, similar to Quince D, but more productive and very hardy; produces smoother fruit with less russetting). Best-known varieties include Meech's Prolific, Serbian Gold and Vranja. Our kitchen garden variety is Meech's Prolific which is vigorous and fruits after just three years. Vranja does best in cooler regions.

Quinces grow well in damp soils, often near ponds or streams. Trees need little care once established. Raising from seed and training can be tricky, so it’s worth buying a 2-3 year-old named variety from a nursery; this also means you don’t have to wait too long before fruiting. Pruning in the dormant season, mature trees just need tidying up, but it’s important to remember fruits form on the tips of the previous year’s growth.

Fruits should be left on the tree as long as possible, until golden-coloured, but must be harvested before any air frosts. Quince can be stored under cool conditions until the end of the year and should be checked regularly for rotting. Avoid storing with apples or pears – their flavour may be tainted.

In the kitchen, quince can be used in a wide variety of ways: add a small amount to apple pie or pear tart to enhance its flavour and colour; fruits are used to make crystallised quince, jam or quince pudding, which is similar to a fruit custard. Famous sweet jelly membrillo is eaten in Spain with Manchego cheese and in Alscae, Liqueur de Coing is made. Ratafia is made from quinces in sweetened alcohol.

This lovely and unusual tree, with its exotic fruit and long history, would be a worthy addition to any garden.

Jobs for the Week

* Harvest apples as they ripen – the apple with the stalk should twist off easily if it’s ready.

* Many plants are going over now, with moulds and mildews appearing; it’s good practice to clear old leaves to avoid the spread of disease and keep the kitchen garden looking tidy

* Keep an eye on the temperatures at night; frost-sensitive crops such as pumpkins and squashes will need to come indoors if it gets cold enough

* Sow sweet peas for next year.

With thanks to Alison Mundie, Horticulturist at RHS Garden Harlow Carr

DIARY DATES

Saturday 15 – Sunday 16 October: Alpine Weekend The Alpine Weekend will showcase the very best of these hardy plants in association with the Alpine Garden Society. Pick up interesting varieties and get advice from a host of UK alpine plant growers. On Saturday, enjoy an Alpine Garden Society show. On Sunday, the West Yorkshire group will be competing for the best locally grown alpines. Normal garden admission.